Kushiwaira: Living Cañari Culture in Cuenca, Ecuador

Our Cañari guide leaned forward and spoke earnestly. “Did you know,” he asked, “that what we know as Carnaval today was originally an indigenous festival to give thanks to Pachamama [Mother Earth]? The Spanish imported their traditions to make us forget our own.” Here at Kushiwaira, at least, Cañari culture is still very much Continue Reading

Salinas de Guaranda: The Little Village that Could

The next time you’re in Ecuador, check out the cheese in the supermarkets. You’re likely to come across the Salinerito brand – locally-sourced and produced right here in Ecuador, in the remote Andean village of Salinas de Guaranda. A brief history Salinas de Guaranda stands at an altitude of 3,550m (11,600ft) Continue Reading

Liana Lodge and Amazoonico, Ecuador: Relaxing and Helping Rescued Wildlife in the Amazon

Liana Lodge, Amazon, Ecuador

There are plenty of good reasons to visit Liana Lodge in the Ecuadorean Amazon. For one, it’s a great example of responsible and sustainable tourism, as it’s run by a Swiss foundation whose objectives include preserving and protecting the rainforest, and implementing sustainable rainforest management in the local Ahuano community. Continue Reading

10 Things I Wish I’d Known Before Hiking the Quilotoa Loop

The Quilotoa Loop: an epic, multi-day trek deep in back-road country. Here, you’ll find breath-taking landscapes where the full beauty of mother nature is revealed. Small villages where life goes on as it has for hundreds of years. And a volcanic crater lake which locals swear has no bottom: the Continue Reading

Hiking the Quilotoa Loop: The Secret to Getting from Chugchilán to Quilotoa Faster Without Killing Yourself

Let’s be clear: the Chugchilán to Quilotoa leg of the Quilotoa Loop is by far most difficult. And the previous legs (Sigchos to Isinlivi and Isinlivi to Chugchilán) are already full-day hikes themselves. So, what can you expect? You’ll cover at least 13km (8 miles) It will take you at least Continue Reading

Hiking the Quilotoa Loop: Isinlivi to Chugchilán & a dilemma

If you hike the Quilotoa Loop counterclockwise, like we did, you’ll go from Isinlivi to Chugchilan. And from Chugchilan to Isinlivi if you do it clockwise, naturally. So after getting thoroughly lost two days before and enjoying a low-key day-trip the day after that, we finally hit the road again. Continue Reading

Otavalo’s Hidden Gems (Part 2): Lagunas de Mojanda and Cuicocha

laguna de Cuicocha | Otavalo | Ecuador | hiking

First, apologies for the Spanglish in the title. I guess it should technically say either “(las) Lagunas de Mojanda y Cuicocha” or “Mojanda and Cuicocha Lakes”, but: this blog is in English, so I ruled the former out (maybe one day I’ll write something in Spanish so I won’t have Continue Reading